August in the Olive Grove

Pruning should be your major task in the olive grove this month.  Pruning can continue right through until flowering in November so it doesn’t all have to be done this month but don’t delay too long as Spring is just around the corner and you will have to contend with a lot more foliage growth then.
It is also a good time to get your fertiliser on while the ground is nice and soft and we are still getting regular rain.  If you haven’t done a specific soil or leaf analysis for a targeted fertiliser application then a general all purpose fertiliser will suffice and set up the trees for the Spring growth burst and on into Summer.
 
Considerations for Pruning
Your first consideration with pruning is ‘How do you harvest?’ because that will determine the shape of your trees. 
Do you harvest by:

• hand onto ground nets
• clappers/poles/mechanical rakes onto ground nets
• using a tree shaker into an umbrella/capture device

 
The second consideration is do you want fruit/oil each year?
Fruit forms on growth from the previous year and as the tree grows the old growth defoliates in favour of the new leafy fruit bearing branches.  With some new growth coming on each year there will always be some fruit from the previous year’s growth but you need to prune to encourage that new growth where you want it.  If you want guaranteed fruit each year then you could prune some of your trees one year and some the next then you will always have some new growth coming through.
 
Pruning
You will need a pruning saw, loppers and some secateurs.  You may even need a chainsaw if it’s a big catch up job!
Firstly, cut out all the old barren branches with no leaf.  They are doing nothing but taking up space. 
Reshape your tree with harvest in mind. If you harvest solely by hand then your trees need to be a ‘reachable’ height, so cut down the height first.  If you have to reduce the tree height, be brutal.  You will lose fruiting branches (and crop for next year) but the regrowth will be abundant and you can reshape more appropriately next year.  Remember if you want some fruit next season don’t do all your trees at once. If your pruning cuts are on large limbs use a pruning paste to protect the wound.
If using clappers/mechanical rakes then you can let your trees grow higher.
If you have tree shaking contractors harvesting with umbrellas capturing the falling fruit then the tree shape should be narrow so fruit falls into the umbrella and not the surrounding ground.   The height of the tree is not an issue.
 
Next, get into the middle of the tree and clear out all the crossed over branches, limbs growing the wrong way and things you can’t reach during harvest.  The birds love these places to build nests.  The centre should be cleared of growth because olives grow and ripen best in the sun so branches should be growing out towards the sunlight.  Dense foliage harbours disease and makes it difficult to harvest so keep the canopy light and airy.  Your pickers will also appreciate all the fruit being accessible.
Lastly, refine the edges by lifting drooping branches off the ground and thin the branches to minimise disease and make the canopy open and accessible. Be careful not to trim off all the new growth as this will be your fruit bearing branches next season.  A good rule of thumb is to thin out the canopy so ‘a bird can fly through’ but doesn’t want to stay and build a nest!  This also means the wind can blow through, pollen can blow through to fertilise the flowers and leaves can be kept dry and less likely to harbour disease, fruit will also get good sun exposure to ripen. Your trees should look lush, bushy and green not grey, sparse and woody.
Good pruning will set up your trees to be the best they can in the seasonal variance that occurs ever more frequently now.  Care for your trees with a bit of good pruning every year and they will produce well each year for a long time. 
​They are worth it for the gorgeous oil you can enjoy so easily all year.